Although the Amsterdam International Fashion Week is not one of the largest or well-known fashion weeks in the world, there are some fashion shows that are well worth seeing. The show of the Fashion Institute Arnhem (FIA), the two-year Master program of the Arts Academy of Arnhem, is one of them. This academy has already produced a lot of successful designers; amongst them are Viktor & Rolf, Alexander van Slobbe and Lucas Ossendrijver (head designer Lanvin Hommes). This is one of the reasons the show of this Master programme often attracts lots of press and people with hopeful expectations, on the hunt for ‘the next Dutch design talent’.
This year's show, presenting the 10th generation, consisted of seven young, talented designers: Linda Valkeman, Roos Koster, Lisa Weinberg, Marloes Blaas, Felicia Mak, Rudolph Holmond and Maryam Kordbacheh.
Each designer showed a complete collection, including shoes that were all nominated for a Sacha Golden Heel Award. Although each MA-graduate showed an unique, individual collection, the shows together formed a nice overview of trends in fashion for the coming years. The show started off with a strong, graphic –mostly black and white - look of Linda Valkeman. From the padded shoulders and mohair orange cardigans in her collection, we quickly changed to male models with white long hair dressed in hiphop-influenced designs of Roos Koster. Surprising elements were the glitter-covered caps and snake-leather Dr. Martens, making the outfits into a strange crossover between street- and showstyle.
In between, the looks changed from romantic knitwear in pastel (Lisa Weinberg), green plisse overalls (Marloes Blaas) to the Burlesque-like glittery designs of Felicia Mak. The collection of menswear designer Rudolph Holmond called ‘Posturbia’ felt like a bizarre story about an English gentleman living in 25th century. The combination of traditional materials (wool, cottons) with techno-materials (shiny plastic, transparent voiles) gave his collection a strong, edgy look that we hadn’t seen in today’s menswear before.
Maryam Kordbacheh, who showed her vision on ‘the sexuality of flowers’, presented the last and strongest collection of the evening. The young designer made very-nice-to-look-at dresses in delicate materials with perfectly constructed pleats and sculptural details. The fragile designs, resembling origami-paper dresses, were in contrast with the high, wooden platform shoes, also designs by Kordbacheh. Her collection was perhaps the most experimental of them all, but having said that, still very wearable. On the whole, FIA’s 10th generation was a pretty safe one, with wearable collections, but luckily with playful details and surprising accessories, that added that ‘show’ element that we at Iconique love to see more.
REPORTED BY MEHTAP GUNGORMEZ FOR ICONIQUE FASHION MAGAZINE
All photographs by Peter Stigter
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